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Growing a more natural decaf coffee

Decaf Coffee Image courtesy of Greenbean-store.com
*By JULIET CHUNG The Wall Street Journal
Posted: 12/18/2008 11:02:28 AM EST
From Madagascar to Costa Rica, farmers, scientists and multinational companies have been racing to deliver an elusive product — a gourmet coffee bean that’s naturally low in caffeine.
Coffee companies have been spending millions of dollars identifying, breeding and, in some cases, genetically manipulating promising coffee varietals. They’ve rooted through seed banks, assembled teams of agronomists and tasted countless cups of coffee, all in pursuit of what some people call the industry’s holy grail, a bean that produces a great-tasting cup of “low-caf.”
Italian roaster Illycaffe introduced Idillyum, its low-caffeine bean, in Italy in early October and plans to offer limited quantities in the United States starting Monday. Companies in Brazil, Costa Rica and Japan are also in the race.
Decaf sales: Coffee companies have been looking for ways to perk up the $2 billion decaf business, which has remained flat in recent years. A bean that is naturally low in caffeine but produces complex, flavorful coffee “would be a huge innovation,” says Geoff Watts, green-coffee buyer for the Chicago-based specialty roaster Intelligentsia Coffee.
Decaf coffee has long been considered inferior to regular, something that coffee experts attribute to the decaffeination process. Typically, coffee beans are steamed open and then soaked in a chemical solution like ethyl acetate, which draws out the caffeine but also flushes away some of the fats and oils that give coffee its aroma and taste. Some decaffeinators use water processing to remove caffeine.
The new beans have more caffeine than most decaffeinated beans, but up to 50 percent less caffeine than regular Arabica beans, the type used to make specialty coffees. The low-caf beans are a glossy brown and, to the untrained eye, virtually indistinguishable from other coffee beans in both appearance and smell.
*Source: http://www.inyork.com/business/ci_11261955
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